![]() ![]() ![]() With that environment if R1 is correctly set PTGui will have no problem in making a very good panorama, you can delete the worst control points optimize and have a target of a maximum distance around 1.2 in Control Point Table of PTGui. You need to make a test panorama in an environment with features on all directions, like an interior of a church or other interior but without featureless walls and ceiling, the bigger interior the better. I think that you have everything right, but that including a 'hand held' nadir shot will help.Īssuming you always shoot at 12mm, if you shoot at 15mm you need to do the follow for 15mm as well Once I am happy that all the bits I do not want are Masked out I go to the Optimizer and switch off the Control Points for my nadir image, run the Optimizer then Create Panorama. It is often necessary to add additional Control Points for the shots round with the 'hand held' nadir shot as PTGui will struggle to do this automatically because of the different perspective.Īt this stage the panorama in the Panorama Editor will have bits of tripod and me holding the tripod horizontally for the 'hand held' nadir shot so I use the 'Mask' tool to Mask out all unwanted items, then check with the Panorama Editor (Ctrl+E). I stitch all the images in PTGui together (shots round and hand held to the nadir) which sometimes results in the Optimizer reporting a 'not so good' stitch, but this is not important as it usually results in all the images being orientated correctly with respect to Yaw, Pitch and Roll. I use a 'hand held' shot to the nadir to 'patch in' the area covered by the tripod and R1 and this will 'cure' the stitching in both cases.īoth the images you show are with the tripod set up on a 'plane' so the Viewpoint Correction technique in PTGui ( ) could be used, but I have found with the latest versions that I do not even have to use this. ![]() ![]() You are right that it is only the lens that the NPP relates to and the not the camera body. I shoot at +7.5° with a Nikon FX body and 10.5mm Fisheye and set it up as I would for horizontal shots round and have not noticed any problem. See at the bottom of, but you don't need to worry about this although it probably is the cause of the misalignment in your image with the wooden floor, because the R1 is very close to the lens.Īlso the NPP relative to the axis of rotation of the R1 changes as the lens is titled as in so you may like to move the lens ring to allow for the 5° elevation, but I really do not think you will notice any difference. The NPP for all Fisheye lenses varies with the angle of the incoming ray which means that the NPP you have found using the tape on window method is good to use, but as the angle of the incoming ray changes so does the 'real' NPP. If that "best result" is not perfect, please post the test images, one can help you with a stitching test in PTGui. How to fix it, use a concrete floor with tiles (indoor, no wind) use remote only or timer trigger in camera, assure that the setup is sturdy, no play, turn the R1 with care to not induce slightly unwanted movements of the setup, take shoots, put control points in PTGui, stitch a test, important are the tiles and tiles only, then adjust the R1 setting a tiny bit forward, repeat the test, if that makes thing worst adjust the settings in the opposite direction, if that makes thing better you can adjust further, further on you'll use use the R1 setting you have the best result, that will be your new R1 setting to use.Īlso being a zoom lens some extra care need to be taken to not have any play in the zoom and focus ring, not having that particular lens, if you use some sort of tape be sure that the lens is not twisted some how in ring due to the tape. First image is not so relevant as you might have some play in setup or your weight on thin wooden floor can cause small shift, also rubber feet can cause that as well.Īs a rule, if the floor tiles turns OK then you can ignore how the upper tripod looks like, because of the aforementioned causes. ![]()
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